taser glove (legit version)
Annoying people on Youtube just show you the outside of their Taser gun gloves and don\'t even know how they did it?
You have a delicate taste and hope your gloves are both powerful and cool. Here you go.
By the way, the first picture shows the electric jump between the LED lights in the glow, not the Taser gun nodes.
I \'ve never done electric gloves before and it\'s the first time, so I\'ll be sure to point out what works and what makes you fly around on the floor, because you have a lot of volts thrown directly into you from the death trap attached to your hand.
Sorry if there\'s a lot to see, it\'s really simple if you know what you\'re doing, but the detailed description takes up space.
If these words confuse you, I took a lot of pictures.
I suggest you read this page first before reading so you don\'t mess it up while reading.
I apologize if my camera is not the best.
Depending on your ingenuity and the resources you already have, it will take at least $30 for the whole thing.
Hope you have some basic tools like pliers, wire cutter, tape, something that can punch holes in things (
If you don\'t have anything else, you can punch your head or scissors with a drill bit, leather)
A hammer and a wallet if you need it.
Edit: I found that the electricity in the glove didn\'t really want to stand still for a long time, the longer you wear the glove, the greater the risk of electric shock.
If it does shock you, then the electric shock on your hand is not bad, but don\'t wear gloves for more than 15 seconds to avoid this (
It\'s been a long time. )
Unless there\'s something shocking about you.
If you have something shocking then you should be fine.
Statement: you should only be used for self-defense purposes and not for attacks.
Don\'t be the one everyone hates because he calls everyone and thinks it\'s funny and doesn\'t have friends.
Especially don\'t use it on friendly animals like pets, it\'s just a mess.
I am also not responsible for the use of compulsory police officers (
You know it\'s great but still illegal).
You can test it yourself, though, to see if it works. . .
Take risks yourself! 1. Taser. (
I recommend this model of Vipertek, advertised as 15 million v, which is a big size and is very powerful and I will work harder if you buy a bigger one. )
It looks like a small box.
You can buy it on Ebay for $12.
99 free shipping.
At least that\'s how I bought it.
These instructions are for this model.
If you do not understand, you will be alone when you attach the gloves to the Taser gun. 2.
Sports gloves or utility gloves (
This is a top grade glove for electrical connection)
If I remember correctly, I bought mine at Home Depot for just over $10.
I love the brand because its style is simple and there is no uncomfortable plastic knuckles.
Don\'t buy a pair of tight ones.
Buy a glove with room to make it thinner and some wires underneath.
Edit: No serious person will get a big glove, you can use the rubber tray gloves or a lot of padding for insulation, you may want to add extra gloves if you need them. 3.
A thin material glove that crosses your arm and extends almost to your elbow.
It\'s just to hold the Taser gun on the arm.
I bought these skeleton costume gloves at Zurchers for $5.
I guess I also kind of like the idea that it looks like a skeleton, but in any case, it\'s mostly covered up with top gloves. 4. Metal rivets.
These are for electrodes.
I used plain flat rivets so I could do other things with my hands without a bunch of spike rivets poking at everything I touch. (
I don\'t like the look of spike rivets, although they make sense to poke clothes a little better)
You can buy these in almost any leather store. 5. Thin wire. (About 5 feet.
6 feet is a safe bet)
Insulated copper for best results.
It doesn\'t need to be very thick at all, and if you screw off the electrodes at the top of the Taser gun, you will see that the wires that carry all this electricity are very thin.
Thinner wires mean less hand stimulation.
Although I haven\'t tried the radio cabin, I can\'t find this at any regular convenience store.
I took some things hanging on the back of the radio and some headphone lines and got mine. 6.
Some basic tools, such as pliers, are used to punch holes.
Can be punched with leather or electric drill)
, Scissors, hammers for fixing rivets, welding items, and rivet hammers (
Optional as I made this glove without welding, which could have some negative effects I don\'t know)
, Utility razor, peeling and paper (
Used this completely).
I also used a little super glue. 7.
Electrical tape and tape.
I think the internet is the best option for me to reduce the cost, so I bought a roll of tape for $2 and then face-
When I passed it at Wal-Mart, I was soft on my own --
58 cents supermarket. .
I doubt you can find a better price elsewhere.
Tape is your hand made friend and there is always some on hand.
Think about where you want the rivets on the outside glove, mark it, then place the holes where you want them, just enough for the rivets to go through.
My leather punch is very effective and amazing where the fabric and rubber are covered.
You might guess 2 or 3 on each finger (
I did 2 because 3 would cramp my movements and I thought the electricity had to go further with less rivets)
But you might want to consider adding 2 in the palm of your hand (what I did).
If you want to get a little crazy, you can try using the back of your hand or the knuckles, but I don\'t, because I think it\'s going to end --the-top a bit.
Once you \'ve got the hang of wiring, you can put them anywhere you like.
Now that you know how many rivets you need and where they will go, it\'s a good time to prepare them.
I mean cut them into size.
I don\'t know if you can find them at the bottom where the rivets are less than 1/4 high, so you can cut them with some cable cutters or your leather work or any other pliers/tool knives with a wire cut wedge.
After cutting, you have to use pliers to squeeze the sides back as they become flat and pointed at the edges and are completely unable to fit into the top again.
You should be fine just by making it fit.
Now you know what to do if your rivets are not properly sized for your future project.
The second picture shows a Rivet, the top is squeezed together after fresh cutting, and the next one has been opened with the pliers section of my tool (
Also use this cut
So the far right is the top of the rivet.
Maybe some people are not familiar with rivets, just like I did two years ago, so I added this picture.
This can be done in a lot of different ways that are probably better than mine, so if you have a better idea or preference, do it the way you do it.
Let me put the Taser in first. . . .
Hold on, here\'s a very useful tip if you\'re not ready: dry your Taser gun.
You don\'t want to accidentally get rid of yourself while doing it.
If you have an LED light on your Taser gun, like my good model, just turn it on and put it in a night or a ton of hours.
If somehow it doesn\'t have light, that\'s the best luck for you.
I suggest you leave enough strength in it to let the little red light tell you that it is armed.
Just press the button to make sure that no electricity will skip the gap so you don\'t get a serious hit.
First of all, I will do something to the button next to it and you have to press the button to shake your Taser gun.
No one wants to keep holding that button in order for your gloves to work.
Do something about it and keep it pressed permanently.
I put the top of the rivet on the button and cover it with tape (
The tape doesn\'t stretch like the appliance, so use it).
You can tell if it works because when you turn it on, the red light doesn\'t glow because the button is pressed.
You need to redo it if it glows because it doesn\'t work.
Then, for maximum safety, just keep the switch in the off position.
Then I pushed it under the glove at the bottom of my arm and put it where I wanted it.
Then I cut a crack at the top of the Taser gun so it can go through.
Then I wrapped it with tape and electrical tape and underneath it went through the more porous I cut on the side to keep it in place.
If the fabric has enough elasticity to move the switch, or to expose the switch through a carefully cut hole, you can keep the switch covered.
I said carefully, because the elastic material can\'t forgive the mistakes and holes cut when relaxing, which are very different from the holes cut when they are tight.
Be very careful, or you may have to buy a new glove or sew a big hole like me (
Maybe you can see in the photo, right next to the Taser gun near the switch).
In any case, be creative and do better because I think my idea is terrible.
You just need to expose the electrode.
Light, because why let it be covered up, to waste?
By the way, it\'s getting tighter in my gloves, so you might notice in one of the photos (picture 4)
I cut off all the fingers and most of the hands on the lower glove, but left the part between the thumb and the index finger tactfully to keep the wrist support intact.
If your gloves are a little big for you and have some extra space, feel free to keep the top of the gloves intact.
Don\'t cut your top gloves.
The last photo is charging.
I just pulled the sleeve down a little and plugged it in.
Tip: Make sure the Taser gun is in a position where you can move your wrist freely.
This is the most time consuming and critical part.
I suggest you read the whole page before you start so you don\'t try to read it online-by-
Line up and chaos.
It\'s simple if you understand what you\'re doing.
Notes on polarity (IMPORTANT)
: The two nodes on your Taser gun are either positive or negative for them, just like a battery.
When you connect your fingers with a wire, alternating the polarity of each finger. Ex: thumb(positive), index(negative), middle(positive), ring finger(negative), pinky(positive).
Do this by alternately connecting the electrodes of each finger, see The penultimate picture for reference.
I wrote notes in each section to make it easier to understand.
To be honest, I didn\'t take my taser gun apart to find out which one was positive and which one was negative, I just alternate which one I connected the wire to and it worked fine.
Reveal the end of your copper wire (first picture).
Stripping pliers are your best friends for this job.
Just a little over the last half inch, just enough to wrap around the bottom of the rivet and twist around itself a little so it doesn\'t fall off, just like you tie a twisted tie on a bag of bread (second picture).
If you are a welding person, you can weld the wire directly to the end seat, but don\'t make it bulky because you still need to press the rivet down.
I don\'t use welding so don\'t worry if you don\'t want (
Again, it works fine).
You do not want any copper wire to extend to the edge of the rivet.
Exposed wires are an electrical hazard.
If so, trim the extra parts.
The third picture is that I made a hole in the electrical tape stacked together.
As you can see in Figure 4, I use these to place between the glove fabric and the rivets.
I do this just because I don\'t fully trust this fabric to reject (
More like preventing traffic)
Electricity is as good as tape.
However, I do think it helps to keep the rivets better. Put a layer (
One of the squares)
Electronic tape inside and outside the glove, clip it between the rivets on both sides of the glove, clearly glued to one side of the glove (
Pay attention to pictures 4 and 5).
Once you wrap the exposed wires around the bottom of the rivet, turn the gloves out of the inside and pass the bottom of the rivet through the hole at the end of the finger (
Which one does not matter at this point, because you will connect each finger separately, but I start with my thumb).
You always want to work from the end of your finger to the opening.
Then try to put your finger back out. right (
If this is a real term)
At the same time keep the bottom of the rivet sticking out through the hole.
Then put the top of the rivet on.
I hammer the rivets (
Actually I have a round sheet of metal with a bag of snap, so technically this is a snapsetting anvil)
Inside the finger under the rivet, then tighten the riveting hammer.
If you are not familiar with the rivets and do not have a snap top hammer, you can press the finger of the glove on the slate or something and hammer it down as much as you can, although if you are not careful, it may cause some damage to the back of the opponent\'s fingers.
Anyway, when you set it up well and tight, it should look like the fourth and fifth.
Tip: Be careful not to damage or cut the wires when tapping the rivets.
Now move to the second hole under that hole you just made on your fingertips.
Fix the wire next to the hole, where the hole falls on the wire, and start removing the insulation there.
Remove a little bit under the hole in half an inch, like picture four.
This part needs to be very careful because it is not as easy as stripping the end of the wire.
I carefully peeled off the insulation with a practical razor.
Be very careful not to cut the wires or you will have to redo the whole finger or stitch the wires together and the stitching is sketchy.
You want to wrap around the bottom of the rivet once and then continue to the other side without letting the copper wire extend to the edge of the rivet (picture six).
Then set the rivets in the same way as the first one.
Make sure the wires are in the direction you want (
Toward the opening of the glove at the wrist, or to the next hole.
Don\'t forget to bring it.
Continue wiring this way, once you reach the end of each finger, lead the wire to the glove opening with 2 or 3 inch, hang it out in standby, you should have enough length to reach your Taser gun, so if it\'s not on your wrist like mine, just have enough to go to the electrodes of your Taser gun.
Always a little more than the length needed to reach the Taser gun electrode!
You don\'t want to find that you cut it too short because it\'s a pain to get the rivets out and you don\'t want to reconnect the whole finger!
If you have an electrode like me in your palm, by connecting the wires of the index finger and the small finger, or the two fingers you know will have different polarity and make them different polarity.
The second to last picture shows the wiring done internally, and the last picture shows the external electrodes.
This should be the case.
It\'s time to make sure the electricity is out of your hand.
First, cover the back exposed by the rivets with a square piece of tape (
It\'s all inside the gloves).
This is the picture before the first picture, so don\'t confuse. Just one layer.
For the second layer, cut the small circle from the paper (
I use just plain print paper)
Large enough to cover rivets (
Now hide under a layer of tape).
Please take a look at the first picture and I put the paper circle in all the rivet areas for reference.
There are three circles on each, so there are three layers of paper (
If you are particularly cautious, four).
Then cover it with three square tape (second picture).
Overall, there is an electronic tape layer at the bottom, three sheets of paper, and then three electronic tape layers. Why paper?
I read on Wikipedia that the paper is not conductive and I agree.
I don\'t want to bet all my money on the utility glue to keep me from powering up.
Paper is available to everyone at any time and flexible.
For additional safety insulation thickness, put two more turns of paper on the paper that has been layered in the above paragraph, and then put three layers of tape. (
Edited in after I felt it was too close to ionize my fingers for comfort.
This thickness allows me to leave it alone at all. ).
Note: Now you may have realized that the adhesive properties of electrical tape are disappointing in terms of fabric (
It\'s not very sticky).
Don\'t worry, it will be fixed after the next paragraph. . .
Trim all the tape corners to reduce the bulky square size that I like to call a \"resistance pad.
You don\'t need them to be these huge ugly Peel blocks, so cut them into a more rounded shape, but be sure to make sure it covers the rivets completely and has a lot of overlap for safety.
See picture three.
Now these resistance pads are in better shape, but still not sticky or durable, covering the entire pads with a layer of tape and sticking them to the gloves.
The tape sticks very well to the fabric and holds it well there, and when you plug the tape in, your hand won\'t peel the tape as easily as the electrician tape.
See picture four.
You can trim a few corners from the tape to stay away from the seams, but don\'t overdo it.
You want to put those resistors in there.
By the way, now is a good time to trim the tape around the rivets outside the gloves.
Trim it as close as you can and look bad outside.
See picture five.
Note: You can use a screwdriver (
Plastic or wooden handle)
And contact the insulation pad (
Your gloves are inside)
When your glove is turned on, it will have considerable power if it is not fully charged.
If there is an electric jump (it wont)
You can also touch each mat with your fingers (
In the case of low power, such as 15 minutes, you can hear electric complaints as long as you have enough power)
Then put your whole hand in all hands at the same time.
If you feel the electricity, fix it.
Note: You may notice a wire on my glove (ring finger)
A little funky, but that\'s because what I found in the other wire was a thin insulated wire, so it was white.
For better insulation, I put it in a bit of tape.
If you have enough wires to do the whole glove, your wire looks like all the other wires, so when you see my \"special wire, don\'t be afraid because it looks different.
Edit note: after charging this thing for over an hour, I put it on and found my hands fashionable, half
Its electrical feel.
In addition, under the insulating mat on the rivet, it feels like a small bubble.
I think this is a combination of the whole charged glove and my insulation pad, a bit too thin (
I only used two layers of paper and two layers of electrical tape on it, which is why I edited it into three layers of paper and three layers of electrical tape.
This is probably the only reason my hands feel the electricity).
If this happens to you, just add some insulation.
Some extra layers of electronic tape may work, or you can add more layers of paper.
Just make sure it is fixed down with tape as the last layer.
I\'m pretty sure your hands will always feel a little funny when the gloves are on, because the whole thing is basically a lot of electricity.
This may be inevitable, just like the noise it makes when it is turned on.
If you get all the insulation from the above instructions, you can still feel a little bit of air bubbles under the pads, but it is impossible for the power to pass through those pads.
This part may be a bit tricky, but not too much.
Remove the ends of all the wires from your gloves, about half an inch away.
See picture one.
Twist the wires of the thumb, middle finger and small finger together at the end.
Then twist the other two wires together at the end to keep the grouping.
This is the right side of the glove.
See the second picture.
Now you want to take a node on your Taser gun.
Rotate the node at the end counter clockwise with some pliers and screw it down.
It\'s just for this model, I have another model that doesn\'t have a plate and doesn\'t screw it down, so if you have a model that\'s different from a 15 million volt Vipertek box --
Find one, you wire it yourself.
See picture three.
I \'ve bent the spires, but I have to bend them back and unscrew the screws and wires, so don\'t bend the gloves until you connect them to the Taser gun.
You will connect the bundles of the three lines to one node and the bundles of the two lines to the other node.
Anyway, the small knob should come out and the plate on the tip side will fall off as well.
You will notice a small red line (
There is a small wire on both sides, it will come and touch the metal plate to carry the power).
This is an important part of the whole thing and you need to get your copper wire to the end of it.
You can wear the end of the harness a little bit to make it more flat and cover more areas of this plate area.
See picture four.
When your wire is under the plate, you need to screw the plate back to the top, of course, there are very few copper wires sticking out from under the plate.
If it\'s hard for you to keep the wire in place and screw the plate back, I only used a little Krazy Glue (
Just super glue, different brands)
At the end of the worn wire, stick it slightly to the plastic.
Do not use super glue on the wire near the small red line, as it may appear between the wires and prevent good connection.
I have done the work on both sides in the fifth picture and bend the sharp edge up and bend it to the bar point so that the electricity does not skip that gap again.
I used a little super glue on the little screws-
Node to keep it stuck where the plates on those wires are tight.
Also around the plate just to keep it in place.
After that, I covered the nodes as simply as possible with tape (
My 4 or 5 layers)
The wire also went up a bit.
Look at the last photo.
Electrician tape is still hard to stick to these things, so you can use the tape on the electrician tape to really keep things stuck to it.
If you like the LED light on the Taser gun, don\'t cover it with tape.
I think it\'s cool on your wrist.
Note: Using super glue on these metal nodes and wires can have interesting results.
When you finally shot Taser (
It has some decent fees)
You will hear a faint hissing. .
I was a little panicking and I wouldn\'t put it in my hand until I knew what made a hissing sound.
I found this to be super glue on these nodes, so don\'t worry if this is hot.
It just means that if you need to connect the top glove to the bottom glove in some way to make it easier to get on and off, then do so.
While you may notice my final product, I don\'t have a photo of me doing this.
This picture is explained in the first note.
I used a few rivets on my wrist to connect the rest under me
Gloves for top gloves.
My finger is right on the tape inside but if you have all the fingers under it
The glove then finds a way to try to put the gloves below on the top so it\'s easy to take off and put on.
Maybe you can sew or tape by hand if you are lazy, or you can try the rivets.
Every time you take off or put on your gloves, you want to be extra careful to put as little pressure on the wires as possible and fixing things can be painful.
Add some designs to make it cooler if you want.
Some precautions to use this Taser Gunner: Note: You only need to charge four or five minutes when you try it for the first time, so that if there is a problem, you will only get a small blow
After I made a mistake but did not correct it, I had a small amount of rivets poking in.
It touches my skin directly and gives me the smallest impact so I know where it is and correct it by covering it.
I hardly feel that I am a very paranoid person about the impact.
This happened because when I put the resistor pad behind, I tried to knock the rivet down with a hammer to tighten the rivet, so it poked in directly. (picture)
Note: You will hear some disturbing electric complaints when you open your gloves (
When it\'s quite large or fully charged).
This is normal and will last until you touch something, make a faint noise on the metal, or if on the skin or other non-metallic, keep quietmetal surfaces.
Note: open this thing, I can\'t hold a fist, and I don\'t believe in throwing a punch when I open it, I bet you\'ll be surprised, but if I\'m wrong, that\'s good for you. takers.
Who am I kidding?
Put this glove in your hand and it takes a lot of courage to open it.
You venture to put this thing around you because it\'s a death trap and you volunteer to connect to your hands with amateur wires and warranty --
Changes are prohibited.
But who cares because it\'s so cool.
Note: you can keep the battery dry all the time if you don\'t want to charge it, just turn on the LED light.
Note: When you find insulation or wire problems under low pressure, you always want to solve them. Do not (
This is not stressful enough)
Fully charged until you have solved all the defects.